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RACPROPS Prop Summit Blaster KIT. ( Limited Edition )
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jameth
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Joined: 02 Feb 2010
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So this is the finished product?????

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racprops
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Location: Phoenix AZ

PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes my version, build as I shipped out the kits with the same castings as all of you got.

Rich
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jameth
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

racprops wrote:
Well I currently use a saten Black and a chemical called pewter black and a special clear coat.

Rich


Rich,
Can you clarify what the "chemical called pewter black" is?? Is it a spray paint or something else.

Also could you say what kind of clear coat it is that you use???

Thanks
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racprops
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is a chemical that you mix with water and then dip the metal parts into, then quickly rinse with water.

I only know it by the name Pewter Black.

It is nasty. But it changes the pewter just enough to really look like old raw steel. Rubber gloves, eye protection and a rubber arpon are needed.

Only problem is it keeps rubbing off in your hand so a clear coat is needed.

I use a satin clear paint. Last was ACE paint.

Rich
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jameth
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this it??

http://www.jaxchemicals.com/jaxshop/shopexd.asp?id=61
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racprops
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should be, I get mine from a local pewter casting shop.

Rich
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jameth
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assume you are planning to already but if not could you also post a right side, top, underneath, front, and back pic of your finished blaster.

thanks
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racprops
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well the other side is in the album.

Rich
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racprops
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 5:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For over ten years the battle of the barrel has fought me.

From the beginning I have fought to get the receiver and the pistol barrel to run true to each another.

The receiver always wanted to sit high.

So for most of this time, machining the barrel smaller has corrected this.

The current barrel size is .680.

This size was correct for the past two years.

I machined the new barrels to this size for the new models.

I have put together a couple of models and of these it works AOK, but it does allow the receiver to now sit a little too low, so turns out I need to return to .075.

I am remaking the barrel mold and anyone that finds their barrel not fitting correctly can exchange it for a new one.

It will take a week or two to mold, cast and machine down the new barrels.

Rich
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racprops
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Updated pictures are being added to the instructions as I find things I need to tell you.

Please check for this.

Rich
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ItalianNinja86
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the only thing i can see thats missing from the instructions Rich is what size drill bit and tap to use for the cylinder swing arm it also holds the trigger guard in place

and what size drill bits and taps are used for the reciver those being the stop screw for the bolt and the holes for the top screws and for what i guess is considered the safety (the bit on the steyr reciver that sits next to the bolt arm) and also what size drill bit to use for the holes for the two screws that hold the arm to the bolt itself and what size drill bit and tap to use for the bolts rear cap

other then that Rich once i get the last bits and pieces from you that you mentioned I'll be able to put together a pretty decent looking replica

Very Happy
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racprops
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks.

I will fix those oversights.

Rich
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racprops
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ItalianNinja86 wrote:
the only thing i can see thats missing from the instructions Rich is what size drill bit and tap to use for the cylinder swing arm it also holds the trigger guard in place

That is also a #43 with a 4/40 Tap, then redrill the swing with #35/36 for a tight slip fit over the screw.

and what size drill bits and taps are used for the reciver those being the stop screw #43 and 4/40 for the bolt and the holes for the top screws A #30 bit and 8/32 tap and for what i guess is considered the safety (the bit on the steyr reciver that sits next to the bolt arm)
#50 and again no tap just screw it in.

and also what size drill bit to use for the holes for the two screws that hold the arm to the bolt itself (That is in the pictures no tap just drill them..).and what size drill bit and tap to use for the bolts rear cap

#43 and 4/40 again.

other then that Rich once i get the last bits and pieces from you that you mentioned I'll be able to put together a pretty decent looking replica

Very Happy

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racprops
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK I have updated a few pictures, lucky when I replace a picture it become the first one in line.

Rich
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E-Wan
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Joined: 07 Dec 2009
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Location: Los Angeles, CA

PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How much sanding should we be doing on the receiver? I have some pretty deep pitting, but I'l worried about removing too metal.
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racprops
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sand as much as needed to clean it up.

If you mess it up too much send it back and I will replace it.

Rich
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E-Wan
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Rich, much appreciated!
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racprops
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now let me make this clear.

All metal casting will have some flaws.

So a few pits or dimples are to be allowed for.


But if you find many deep pits or flaws and after trying to clean them up, if you cannot or you damage the writing, then I will replace a part.

Or in some cases it the writing is undamaged I may repair the part for you.

Same for other parts.

Rich
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Major
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Joined: 13 Nov 2009
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the kit this morning.......

Now to start clean up and assembly..... sweet........

Robert
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ItalianNinja86
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 1:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey Rich one more thing i didnt see in your instructions is was size drill and tap to use for the butt plate

and what size drill an tap to use for the screw that goes into the back of the grip frame
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