NEW 2011 Blade Runner Blaster

[Noeland]

Rich, that's great man. I always wondered how long it was going to take you to build one of these. You went with stainless I see. Was this tough to drill and tap? I've heard that stainless steel is a lot harder than blued steel to tap.

A friend of mine down in Tampa has a 38 undercover from 1965, one of their most early models, and it still fires like a champ. He even carries it concealed when he works at his family's bike shop.
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I don't have enough blasters!

[racprops]

Well Charter Arms seems to only make them in Stainless Steel and a blued gun is wrong anyway.

It was a mater of time and money as well.

Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[hirohawa]

[racprops]

OK Here is the deal.

The cost for a treaded, ready to fit a Bulldog frame barrel will be $170.00 plus shipping.

Now to the fine print: These will not have the three holes drilled for mounting the receiver and ammo housing.

This is due to the fact that these are threaded barrels and have to be screwed into the Bulldog frame and thus each frame will be a one of a kind fit, if we drilled holes on one frame they will not line up on another frame.

So that will be your responsibility.

And the gun smith I am dealing with feels that a barrel drilled though into the bore to thread it, will weaken the barrel, so he said we should only drill and tap about 4 threads deep, leaving .050 inch of steel barrel between the hole and the bore.

If this is done correctly then the barrel will be OK for live fire. He really suggests we only fire blanks, after all most likely with no sights we cannot really hit anything…

Also for those that plan on blanks or even round firing we are considering leaving the barrel .020 longer so that it can be faced off tight to the cylinder, a smaller gap will let less gasses leak out putting less strain on the side covers. This will need a machine shop to do for you so that you will have a custom fitted barrel to your pistol.

He is willing to do the drilling and tapping at an extra cost, which brings the next problem, it will be up to you to mount the barrel tightly, mount the receiver and ammo housing and mark where you want the holes drilled. He will drill then where you mark them and we make no promises or guarantees other than to drill them as you mark them.

We do not have the price for the drilling or welding at this time.

One other idea for those that want to really fire rounds is to weld a boss where the sleeve would go and then have a screw to mount the ammo housing to, this leaves a stronger barrel, and again you provide the marking.

As this is a off the wall deal, we both will want a contract that you understand the risks and that we cannot control what happens once the barrels leave our hands, and you accept all risks and we are not responsible in any way.

Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[Heat2237]

Ok, here is a question Rich. I am not ever planning on putting real rounds down range. I don't see the point since there are no sights. Basically all you would have is a gun which can be used for point shooting only. But, I would like the capability of firing blanks only. Would it be possible for your guy to manufacture a barrel without rifling? If using blanks rifling is not necessary. And instead of cutting threads on the end of the barrel that attaches to the Bulldog frame, could the end (that attaches into the bulldog frame) be turned down just a fraction smaller than the inside threads of the bulldog barrel. That way it could be press fitted into the bulldog frame and possibly held with some jb weld. There will be no back pressure when the gun is fired because it would only be using blanks. This way, the three holes could be predrilled into the barrel. Maybe it might be better to make this in aluminum. Of course this would only work for a blank firer only. It's just an idea. What do you think?

[racprops]

I fear you do not understand the forces we are playing with…

Here I am worried about blowing the side covers off with a blank and a real barrel and the gun smith is worried about weakling the barrel by drilling a hole in it and you want to JB Weld a barrel in and fire a blank out of it.

Remember the actor that killed himself with a blank?? Even blanks are dangerous within a few feet; I believe it is at least 7 feet…they still have gun powder and fire a wad out the barrel.

We are playing with gas pressures in the hundreds of pounds per square inch here, a pressure of 30 pounds can kill you, like the old split rim truck tire, we had to put them in a steel cage to inflate to 30 pounds, because if the ring failed to seat correctly and came off it could take off your head. We had one split rim do so and my ears rang for three days from the sound of that ring hitting the cage.

I tell this story and how I was told a guy did indeed loose his head when on ring came off a rim at 30 pounds…to anyone in my shop using the pressure casting tank that we pressure to only 40 pounds as a warning to not unlock the lid until ALL the air is out, even a little pressure can be dangerous.

I also point out how a little thing like vacuum also is very dangerous, we live in 14 pounds per square inch air pressure, it is strong enough to bend a one inch plate of Lexan plastic on my vacuum tank. I then show them it doing so.

And on this I point out how very dangerous a simple old picture tube was…that a broken picture tube will implode, but that is only for the first millisecond then all that comes out the other side and can again kill you..

Back in the day when I was a TV repairman I worried about this so I tested a few things, like how they bonded a safety face plate on the front just in case, and yes even a large brick will not punch though…(the scene in TV show and movies showing someone punching though the face of a TV is make believe…a sledge hammer will not get though..the face.)

But behind the face plate, it is weak..I put a small Black and White picture tube in a large trash can face down and lobbed bricks at it from about 10 feet away and one broke it, the bang got a few people to come out of their houses to see what had exploded and I heard glass and found chunks ten plus feet behind me… and here I was picking pictures up by the weak neck to change them…. Ouch....

So we are getting real gun barrels and machining them to fit the Bulldog.

Anything less has to be NEVER fired in any way.

PLEASE no short cuts…do not even think of it, a blank gun is still a gun.

Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[Heat2237]

Good Points. Well said. I'll take one barrel.

[joberg]

Thanks Rich for putting the emphasis on safety first when it comes to firearms (any kind, even "firing props"). As soon as it becomes "live" with blanks or live ammo it is now a real gun and should be treated as such.

[propsjonnyb]

I also reiterate Rich's comments , I work extensively with PFC guns and everyone who handles one treats it like a Real gun as the charge can still burn you if hands or fingers get in the way, I fit a proper .44 smooth bore barrel to the .38 PFC donor gun and make doubly sure the barrel is fitted to the gun frame with a saftely bar installed this allows the gasses to vent up the barrel but prevents any thing else from entering the barrel making it relativly safer. I think I'm the only person who makes a'firing' BR Blaster but I emphasise it is a PFC an not a real gun or a blank firer . Never point a gun at anyone , allways explain what will happen before firing , and always remember a PFC 'bullet' once primed with a cap is live and can go off if you drop it on a hard floor , so missfire's are treated, as if you've fired a real gun. all real gun rules apply !!

[racprops]

OK As with everything I offer, I ask you to email me at racprops@cox.net .

I do this as I create a folder in my Outlook email program for each project, this lets me contact you with updates and when your order is ready to go.

Edit (Contact Rich at his email if you wish to talk about real bulldog firearms in regards to purchase. Do not do it here at Propsummit) - Amish

I will consider doing this upgrade to both my models and the Tomenosuke and Tomenosuke Pro, within reason. Note some parts of the Tomenosuke and Tomenosuke Pro parts may not be usable and will be replaced with my parts, like the trigger guard. The Tomenosuke side covers were plastic and will be replaced, on the Tomenosuke Pro I believe they used aluminum so these may even be better than my pewter. The outer grip frame may work with a little grinding and sanding.

The Tomenosuke and Tomenosuke Pro front trigger may not clear the real guns working parts so may need to replace with mine as it does clear and fit into a real gun.

Also we may need to turn the barrel down to ¾ inch if it is larger, so that May (depending on costs) add to the final price, I don’t think it will but I need to hold that open in case.

Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[racprops]

Edit (Contact Rich via his email in regards to actual firearms. Please do not offer services for sale on Propsummit regarding actual firearms. Thank you for understanding) - Amish

Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[Helder22]

Rich, what is the "boss"you are referring to?
Helder

[racprops]

The tube joining the ammo housing to the barrel, covering the 10/32 screw, we would like to weld a tube to the barrel thus not drilling into the barrel at all and then a short screw will be used that threads into the tube/boss instead, look just about the same but barrel is stronger.


As he knows how to do the weld correctly the effect of the weld is less that drilling and taping will be.

Yes we are that concerned...


Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[hauptmann]

Rich,

You might want to consider brazing the post with brass fill, or silver soldering, with a low silver content solder fill. Either will reduce the exposure of the steel barrel to heat and make clean up easier. Welding with steel fill on such a small part, in a place that you want to have look good afterward, would be very tricky and difficult with cleanup.

Just a suggestion, from somebody who works with steel professionally.

Jeffrey

[racprops]

He does suggest solding but even silver solder is welting, and to do it on the back section so it will show less.

Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[Helder22]

Heres what I found:

The tap drill for a 10-32 tap is Ø.159. Drills go oversize unless you sneak up on the hole, so call that Ø.160. Let's suppose that the blind hole in the barrel is flat bottomed. Then we have a fixed-edge diaphragm which is Ø.160. How thick must that diaphragm be to support 10,000 psi? (The peak pressure of a 44 Spl is 15+ KSI. Some 5" down from the case head, barrel pressure will be well under 10 KSI.) What shall we set for a yield strength for the stainless? Even soft 304 has a yield strength of ~40 KSI, so let's be EXTRA safe and say 30 KSI. Then, using the formula for fixed-edge flat circular plates of constant thickness in Roark's Formulas for Stress and Strain, we find the diaphragm must be at least .040" thick. If the barrel OD is 3/4, and it's ID is .429, then the wall thickness is ~ .160. Hence, the tap drill should be allowed to go no more than .160 - .040 = .120 dp after touching the OD of the barrel.

And thats playing extra it safe and for the larger hole on the bottom. The same depth will be safer still for the 2 side screws which are of smaller diameter.

After tapping a .120 hole that should give us at least 3 or 4 threads out of a 10-32 which should be enough to hold just about anything you could throw at it.

[racprops]

Right he wants a .050 wall thickness between the hole bottom and the bore.

In line with your numbers.

And we can never be totaly sure someone will never fire a standard full loaded round with a bullet, so he feels better if we design for that.

Nice to have back up info comfirming my guy.

Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[blastmaster]

[racprops]

Thanks.

Rich
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I never have enough time to do all I want to do!

[amish]

Rich, your work is stunning.

Please know that we cannot have people selling actual firearms on this site and that if you wish to enter into a purchase with Rich in regards to using a real firearm or modifying a real firearm, please do it via email and not on Propsummit.

Propsummit cannot and will not be responsible for the sale or modification of actual firearms on this site.

I simply ask that you respect this.

Sorry to be a bummer, but there are too many liabilities involved when dealing with actual firearms. I hope you all understand.
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