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doppelganger01
Community Member
Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 229
Location: L.V.N.V.
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 Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 1:27 pm Post subject: |
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That is the Pflager Katsumata Series D - II 2018 Model (first iteration as noted by the "Shimago Dominguez" brand) and your built up is the best one I have ever seen. You did an amazing job. I regret that I did not keep the original patterns and molds.
Sincerely,
Rick
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www.reddragonkipplecompany.com
www.pflagerkatsumata.com
www.ricklross.com |
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Staar
Community Member
Joined: 04 Feb 2008
Posts: 757
Location: AUSTRALIA
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| Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 8:58 pm Post subject: |
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| doppelganger01 wrote: | That is the Pflager Katsumata Series D - II 2018 Model (first iteration as noted by the "Shimago Dominguez" brand) and your built up is the best one I have ever seen. You did an amazing job. I regret that I did not keep the original patterns and molds.
Sincerely,
Rick |
Rick, my most grateful thanks for your kind comments - an honor indeed! Personally I liked the Shimago Dominguez branding on that piece.
Your work is simply of the highest standard and for this we (this community and others) owe you a debt of gratitude. If time allows I dare say I will probably acquire one of your new models - that way I won't have to try and fix what someone else has wrecked!
BTW, I have changed all reference to the blaster in this thread to the correct model number and type: "Pflager Katsumata Series D - II 2018 Model". I would hate to give credit to an individual who seems to have a dubious reputation amongst the members here..... 
Best to you mate and congratulations on your superior product
Last edited by Staar on Thu Feb 07, 2008 11:01 am; edited 1 time in total |
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doppelganger01
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Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 229
Location: L.V.N.V.
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airhead
Community Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2006
Posts: 43
Location: Indiana, USA
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| Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:17 pm Post subject: |
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Just for those who haven't had any first-hand experience with one of Rick's kits, that crack about the "basically a nicely formed lump of plastic" was meant as a gross understatement  .
As Staar points out, there is a world of "kits" out there that have nowhere near the detail and fit and finish of Rick's kits. I hope that you can pick up one of Rick's recent offerings, I'd love to see what you can do with one of these.
David |
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amish
Community Guide
Joined: 11 Apr 2006
Posts: 1433
Location: Outside Philadelphia
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| Posted: Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:55 pm Post subject: |
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Staar,
I am at a loss of words for how wonderful that turned out. I really look forward to anything else you may tackle in the future.
I also want to say along with everyone else that Rick's kits are fantastic! When you receive one of his kits, you can tell he puts a lot of love into it.
Take care,
Tom
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www.propsummit.com
www.bladerunnerprops.com |
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Staar
Community Member
Joined: 04 Feb 2008
Posts: 757
Location: AUSTRALIA
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 10:41 am Post subject: |
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Recently I was inspired by the photographs of the original Blaster up for auction (and naturally also Karl T's stupendous resource) to upgrade the 2nd hand PKD I had tampered around with a number of months ago.
I stripped the piece down and worked from the ground up replacing some elements (like the trigger guard) and repairing others (the original LED's that had been removed by the original owner).
I never liked the cut wires seen in Karl's original pictures because I felt it looked like the blaster would malfunction but, after seeing them (badly) repaired for the auction, I decided to insert a set. I felt a slightly lighter gauge wire than those featured in the original was called for and I also opted for 2 wires instead of 4.
I also never felt comfortable with the "On-off" switch because it smacked of something foreign to a firearm and certainly unlike anything I was used to with the weapons I used to carry, so I left the switch off.
This is still a WIP because the triggers need to be changed as do some other components. This is not intended to be a screen accurate version, but rather a hybrid piece and a celebration of one of the most beautiful replica's made by the especially gifted Rick Ross (http://www.pflagerkatsumata.com/).
I hope this is of some interest....
Card Reproductions:
I've moved the cards to the Paper Prop thread: http://propsummit.com/viewtopic.php?p=22125#22125
Last edited by Staar on Sun May 10, 2009 4:07 am; edited 2 times in total |
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BeastMaster
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Joined: 19 Jul 2007
Posts: 994
Location: UK
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 10:48 am Post subject: |
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very nice! that steel finish is the best paintjob I've seen! looks like real steel  how did you apply the rust and what sort of paint did you use?
also, any chance of grabing the template for the card? was gonna make one of these myself 
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"F*ck it, it's just a movie. Let him worry about it" Harrison Ford |
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Gaff87
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Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1727
Location: United Kingdom
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 10:59 am Post subject: |
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| BeastMaster wrote: |
also, any chance of grabing the template for the card? was gonna make one of these myself |
I'd like to second that 
Pretty please. |
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joberg
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.jpg)
Joined: 06 Oct 2008
Posts: 9447
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 11:34 am Post subject: |
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| Most excellent job Sir! A work of art |
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andy
Community Guide
Joined: 01 Nov 2006
Posts: 6237
Location: Rochester, NY
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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Love that paint job, Love Rick's gun, Love your photographs and layouts, and love that title card.
Great work Staar!
Andy |
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Bassnoir
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Joined: 28 Dec 2008
Posts: 345
Location: Olympia, WA
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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...what a delight.....many thanks for sharing info insights and pix....it's also very nice to see words in print from Rick......
David
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...the future is not all it's cracked up to be... |
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Staar
Community Member
Joined: 04 Feb 2008
Posts: 757
Location: AUSTRALIA
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| Posted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:22 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you very much gentlemen. I appreciate the kind words.
@Beastmaster - Although this is a new build (on an old kit), I describe the process of the previous painting on page one of this post. The only change is that I used a SATIN Black finish only on the body panels to show the slight sheen but I buffed it slightly to make it look like it has been used..
Herewith two versions of the card - one new and the other old and buggered. The details are as accurate as my old eyes can determine.
The main font (square) is accurate and I recall that it was popular in the late 70's and early 80's. The body font seems like it could be a Humanist variant. I can't recall if this was popular back then but hopefully it will suffice.
The card artwork has been moved to the Paper Prop thread:
http://propsummit.com/viewtopic.php?p=22125#22125
Enjoy..[/i]
Last edited by Staar on Sun May 10, 2009 4:11 am; edited 1 time in total |
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phase pistol
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Joined: 04 Nov 2006
Posts: 1147
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| Posted: Fri May 01, 2009 12:13 am Post subject: |
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| The font that "BLADE RUNNER" is set in, is called "Square"? |
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Staar
Community Member
Joined: 04 Feb 2008
Posts: 757
Location: AUSTRALIA
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| Posted: Fri May 01, 2009 12:15 am Post subject: |
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| phase pistol wrote: | | The font that "BLADE RUNNER" is set in, is called "Square"? |
Yep.. |
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BeastMaster
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Joined: 19 Jul 2007
Posts: 994
Location: UK
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| Posted: Fri May 01, 2009 4:23 am Post subject: |
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nice one! thanks for sharing that staar
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"F*ck it, it's just a movie. Let him worry about it" Harrison Ford |
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Gaff87
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Joined: 05 Oct 2008
Posts: 1727
Location: United Kingdom
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| Posted: Fri May 01, 2009 6:17 am Post subject: |
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Staar, thanks for sharing those 
Both look great, and your blaster is a beaut! |
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Cottonball
Community Member
Joined: 14 Aug 2009
Posts: 30
Location: Pennsylvania, USA
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| Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 2:29 pm Post subject: |
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Staar - I've been experimenting with the 6B graphite technique on a build I'm working on. I painted the entire body with flat black as you suggested. However, after applying the graphite to the "bare metal" parts, they're still kinda dark. How did you get yours so light? Or is it maybe a trick of the camera/flash? On mine, there's definitely a discernible difference between the flat black parts and those with graphite, but it's more subtle that I'd hoped.
BTW, I always enjoy returning to this thread to look at the great pictures of your build. Just stupendous!
Eric |
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Staar
Community Member
Joined: 04 Feb 2008
Posts: 757
Location: AUSTRALIA
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| Posted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 10:54 pm Post subject: |
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| Cottonball wrote: | Staar - I've been experimenting with the 6B graphite technique on a build I'm working on. I painted the entire body with flat black as you suggested. However, after applying the graphite to the "bare metal" parts, they're still kinda dark. How did you get yours so light? Or is it maybe a trick of the camera/flash? On mine, there's definitely a discernible difference between the flat black parts and those with graphite, but it's more subtle that I'd hoped.
BTW, I always enjoy returning to this thread to look at the great pictures of your build. Just stupendous!
Eric |
Cheers Eric - kind words indeed sir!
I guess when I originally worked on the PKD, I was after the traditional rich 'blue' finish to the blaster - i.e. dark and metallic. So using a black base would certainly give your blaster a dark finish. I only really saw the difference when I was working on my WorldCon because I first thought to use the same rust technique on the metal - but it soon became clear that the light almost 'bare metal' of the WorldCon needed a totally different 'rust' solution.
As you can see the finish is totally different but - for me - the more stylised casting of Rick's beautiful blaster works well with more stylised darker finish. I think it looks crisp and clean.
However, if you are after the true WorldCon bare metal finish, perhaps you will need to experiment on a piece of scrap plastic. First using a traditional silver spray paint and then as an alternative, use a grey primer spray paint. After the paint has dried, try rubbing the surface with your graphite - starting with a fairly light dusting and slowly working up to a thicker layer and see if this works. My instinct is to go for the Grey primer, because not only is it a traditional flat grey color but it will also give you a lighter base on which to work.
Remember to vary your finish over the surface. The sharp edges would carry a thicker layer of graphite because that would attract more wear as would areas like to top of the Steyr housing, the top curve of the bolt etc. etc.
Hopefully my ham-fisted approach will give you some help but I know there are more gifted people than me out there who might be able to chime in. Lets see some pictures when you get a chance..
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joberg
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Joined: 06 Oct 2008
Posts: 9447
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| Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 6:13 am Post subject: |
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| These guns look so good Staar...sigh... |
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Cottonball
Community Member
Joined: 14 Aug 2009
Posts: 30
Location: Pennsylvania, USA
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| Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 8:25 am Post subject: |
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Again, many thanks Staar! You're a true friend of this hobby!
You know, now that I see the photo you just posted, mine may not be so far off as I thought. An while accuracy is important to me, I do have to admit that I like the darker metal that has less contrast with the black parts.
My latest challenge is that the kit was missing the trigger guard. I've created one from scratch out of clay. Next step is to make a mold to cast a new one.
One last thing: At the risk of gushing further, I have to laud your tremendous photography skills!
Eric |
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