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nonner242 Community Member
Joined: 25 Jun 2011 Posts: 77 Location: OHIO USA
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Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 4:26 pm Post subject: PDK resin kit build start to finish with photos....1st timer |
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So Im starting my PDK AUS kit today 8-4-11.
I dont know a thing about resin kits, but I have messed around with some Nerf gun painting & modding last Halloween for a costume. My Nerf guns came out ok and I found it alot of fun & frustraing at times but I got a feeling of creating something different that makes me giddy like a kid instide.
I saw this kit on Ebay and said "What the hell, how hard can it be?"
I figure if I get too frustrated I can always see if someone here can help out and give me any pointers...right? I'm going to try real hard not to ask for anything until IM super stuck, but if anyone wants to point me towards a good metallic paint I wont stop you.
So now we will see how far I get before I turn it into a horrid disfigured blaster or something that looks fairly passable for a prob gun......
The Kit...Comes with everything shown. Some basic instructions that are from a different model but pretty much seem to work so far.
By nonner242 at 2011-08-05
Some sanding drilling & filling done today. It seems to be a so so to not so hot mold. I have alot of nicks and disfigured details, like fake screws/edges/bad seems and text. My reciever is really really wavy on top. Also the front of the reciever has no real detail. The point in the very front is just like a blob of gum. Both my thumb switches are almost unuseable, all detal is lost in a bad pull of the mold I guess. My trigger gaurd and area above it where the triggers sit is just horrid. Blobs of resin in very hard to get areas without ruing other parts of the gun. Im going to take my time and try to get it as clean as can. But I cannot even get the triggers to fit in that area. Triggers also have a really bad seem on them. So basically you be doing ATON of sanding and patching to get this thing to look somewhat nice. But then again this is my first time with a kit so maybe this is out of my skill/comort range?
By nonner242 at 2011-08-05
By nonner242 at 2011-08-05
Alot of work done today.
By nonner242 at 2011-08-05
4th patch and sand on wavy reciever top.
By nonner242 at 2011-08-05
I hope this makes it smoother?
By nonner242 at 2011-08-05
Remade front reciever tip the best I could.
By nonner242 at 2011-08-05
OK enough with the frame I wanna mess the grips.
They need love. The mold on these seem very vice compaired to the rest of the kit. But the backs are heavy pitted and will need alot of sanding.
By nonner242 at 2011-08-05
After about 45 min of sanding and 20 min wet sanding and a quick buff.
By nonner242 at 2011-08-05
I hit the fron & back abit more with some wet sanding and a good buff...Im liking it! I can clearly read the text behind it now.
By nonner242
By nonner242 at 2011-08-07
Looks alot better than his brother..huh? Dont worry I get you soon.
By nonner242 at 2011-08-05
Last edited by nonner242 on Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:32 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Baron Von Blondle Community Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2010 Posts: 101 Location: In Trouble
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Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 5:01 pm Post subject: |
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looking good so far! resin can be a pain to work with especially in areas like you mention that are hard to get to, one wrong move with too much pressure and crack it's all over, although having said that I've got resin props that have been knocked off tables by playful kitties and they survived intact. I reckon some caution is needed but it is overall quite durable (IMHO).
stupid question alert!! :- what exactly is wet sanding and how did you apply it to the grips? and did you use sandpaper or a dremel/sander for the backs?
also when you say the reciever top was wavy, how so?
thanks for sharing this, It's gonna prove invaluable for me personally in about 2 weeks when I start mine! I've not been able to find a detailed posting about this kit being built anyway so far so it's muchly appreciated!
Respect
P. _________________ Illustrator, Propmaker, general fiddler....https://www.facebook.com/Strangelysaucy |
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nonner242 Community Member
Joined: 25 Jun 2011 Posts: 77 Location: OHIO USA
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Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 5:36 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | stupid question alert!! :- what exactly is wet sanding and how did you apply it to the grips? and did you use sandpaper or a dremel/sander for the backs? |
Well I didnt know either...but I read that someone did a "wet sand". So I saw a guy on youtube do it to a classic car, looked good so I did the same. I just got some 600 grit wetordry paper and ran the part under water while I sanded it. Looks good to me so I guess it worked fine. Then just buffed it with Meguiars PlastX and a t shirt 2-3 times to get shine.
Quote: | also when you say the reciever top was wavy, how so? |
Well if you run you finger from back to front you could feel the highs and lows. All the rust colored parts on my reciever are the low parts that the filler leveled out and what you see in my pics is the filler after I sanded it down.
Quote: | thanks for sharing this, It's gonna prove invaluable for me personally in about 2 weeks when I start mine! I've not been able to find a detailed posting about this kit being built anyway so far so it's muchly appreciated! | I know...I woulda loved to have one too.
_________________ |
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Staar Community Member
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 757 Location: AUSTRALIA
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Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2011 11:27 pm Post subject: |
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Nice thread..
A point I'd like to make is that you should know that the resin on these blasters is especially weak at the point where the bulldog grip meets the upper receiver. Because of the weight of the upper portion of the blaster, its wise to never pick the assembled piece up (or put it down) by the grip but rather to hold it with your thumb and forefingers between the triggers and the upper portion of the Steyr receiver.
Regards
MARK _________________
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Baron Von Blondle Community Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2010 Posts: 101 Location: In Trouble
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 4:23 am Post subject: |
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Staar wrote: | A point I'd like to make is that you should know that the resin on these blasters is especially weak at the point where the bulldog grip meets the upper receiver. |
that's very useful to know before the build for real, thanks.
maybe it's an option/idea to reinforce that particular area.
as a thought I did similar withe the buttstock of an EE3 Boba Fett rifle using 2 steel kebab skewers embedded through the middle of the flimsy stock. It made it much more sturdy.
Mark :- do you think in your opinion there'd be enough width to that part to safely drill through and insert a similar kind of rod or support?
Respect
P. _________________ Illustrator, Propmaker, general fiddler....https://www.facebook.com/Strangelysaucy |
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Staar Community Member
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 757 Location: AUSTRALIA
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 7:47 am Post subject: |
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Baron Von Blondle wrote: | .
Mark :- do you think in your opinion there'd be enough width to that part to safely drill through and insert a similar kind of rod or support?
Respect
P. |
Mate --
I'm not sure.. If I recall correctly it was the grip part right up near the bigger, heavier receiver that was at risk so I made thin brackets that ran alongside the grips to underneath the 'side covers'. It was a bit of a chore but I figured that if I could strengthen the frame on the outer edge and not pierce the resin, then the resin would (hopefully) not be compromised. It certainly worked well and you would never know the thin brackets are there - unless you remove the grips that is…
I'm sure there are other ways to do this and once you've inspected your pieces I'm equally sure you'll discover a far more elegant way to do it than I did.
Best of luck
Regards
MARK _________________
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amfx74 Community Member
Joined: 24 Apr 2011 Posts: 138 Location: Australia
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 8:19 am Post subject: |
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I am sure my kit is not that bad, will be able to get to it soon. The strength also depends on the resin type used and how well it was mixed. Plastic card stock or metal shim could be laminated to the resin for structural support.
Nice work with the grip there. |
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Fangorn81 Community Member
Joined: 03 May 2009 Posts: 172 Location: Brooklyn, NY
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 9:53 am Post subject: |
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I built that kit, and while I am happy with the results I achieved, it was a lot of work sanding reshaping and building up parts that didn't fit together properly. And the grips were warped pretty bad. They never sat flat against the body.
Like I said, it still turned out pretty good, especially in pics, but it was a pain. _________________ Good against remotes is one thing. Good against the living? That's something else.
Joah Mahan |
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Baron Von Blondle Community Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2010 Posts: 101 Location: In Trouble
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 10:20 am Post subject: |
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dude you have to show us some pics now! no fair
Respect
P. _________________ Illustrator, Propmaker, general fiddler....https://www.facebook.com/Strangelysaucy |
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nonner242 Community Member
Joined: 25 Jun 2011 Posts: 77 Location: OHIO USA
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 11:55 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the extra info guys.
I am having one issue if anyone can help.
My barrel seems to be a different type of resin from the rest of the gun.
You can see in the pics it looks like wax.
I have cleaned all my parts with soapy warm water & toothbrush and let dry. And for the 4th time now I have cleaned scrub up the barrel. When I put a coat of primer or Krylon plastic paint on it, I get a few spots and a 2" streak of paint that wont dry it just stays gummy/tacky.
Im getting abit frustrated cuz when I clean it off or sand it, you cannot feel anything different from the areas that stuck. Its not oily or shiney or anything diffent looking.
Any ideas? |
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Baron Von Blondle Community Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2010 Posts: 101 Location: In Trouble
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 12:53 pm Post subject: |
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hmmm that's strange...my only suggestion is that it could be the paint itself - I had the same problem with a plastikote chrome on a resin E11 that took almost a week to set and ended up looking...well...like paint rather than chrome. I've since used plastikote on other props and it's the same so I just tend to use auto spraypaints now...other than that no idea...sorry
Respect
P. _________________ Illustrator, Propmaker, general fiddler....https://www.facebook.com/Strangelysaucy |
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hirohawa Community Member
Joined: 18 May 2006 Posts: 1067
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 4:13 pm Post subject: |
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The resin has not cured on that area - just dab some superglue on it and sand it down leaving a thin coat of superglue and then prime and paint.
That section will never hold paint no matter how many times you wash it or sand it. |
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nonner242 Community Member
Joined: 25 Jun 2011 Posts: 77 Location: OHIO USA
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 11:16 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks hiro, Super Glue worked like a charm. Too bad I wasted so much time on this one part. |
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nonner242 Community Member
Joined: 25 Jun 2011 Posts: 77 Location: OHIO USA
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Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 11:16 pm Post subject: |
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Dub post!
Well I'll get some more pics up sunday of some of the new paint. |
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hirohawa Community Member
Joined: 18 May 2006 Posts: 1067
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Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 4:11 am Post subject: |
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nonner242 wrote: | Thanks hiro, Super Glue worked like a charm. Too bad I wasted so much time on this one part. |
Glad it worked for you. Looking forward to see more progress on this buildup. |
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nonner242 Community Member
Joined: 25 Jun 2011 Posts: 77 Location: OHIO USA
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Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 11:25 am Post subject: |
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So after fixing my sticky paint resin parts...more areas than you'd think.
I used Krylon Primer for most of the gun body & Krylon plastic paint for the ammo housing to give it that plastic look of the original Steyr.
These are just the first coat I plan on 1 more. And so far I have not had any new sticky part pop up.
By nonner242 at 2011-08-07 |
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joberg Community Member
Joined: 06 Oct 2008 Posts: 9447
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Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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Looking good so far...keep up the good work |
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Baron Von Blondle Community Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2010 Posts: 101 Location: In Trouble
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Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:50 am Post subject: |
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were you using the dremel to buff the grips? I'm having a devil of a time getting those badboys looking as glorious as yours!
Respect
P. _________________ Illustrator, Propmaker, general fiddler....https://www.facebook.com/Strangelysaucy |
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nonner242 Community Member
Joined: 25 Jun 2011 Posts: 77 Location: OHIO USA
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Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 1:18 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | were you using the dremel to buff the grips? I'm having a devil of a time getting those badboys looking as glorious as yours! |
Nope, just small strips of 600 grit wetdry paper and running it under water till I got it nice and smooth then used Plastx to get shine back. I was using my thumb for most of the wet sanding.
If it still had some pits or uneven areas I just did it all again till I got it to where I liked it.
Yes they took along time and my arm was killing me. I only did one aday so I can heal... |
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nonner242 Community Member
Joined: 25 Jun 2011 Posts: 77 Location: OHIO USA
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Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2011 2:36 pm Post subject: |
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OK so now that I got all my parts sanded and primed...Im stuck!
I really dont know which way to go about the color?
I want to do something different...no worlcom...not just another blaster.
I do have one idea that Im stuck on abit..
I think I am just affraid to commit to a style yet. Well I guess I can let it sit for a third day and do alittle touching up and tweaking.
But it does look sexy all black with amber grips. |
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