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		| megagreg Community Member
 
  
 Joined: 06 Aug 2009
 Posts: 44
 Location: Oakland, CA
 
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				|  Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 1:54 am    Post subject: Pewter Repair |   |  
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				| Hi all, 
 So I'm in the middle of my first SidKit build, and I've ran into a snag. Seems that the pewter was very thin near the back wall of the bulldog frame (where the cylinder would pop out). And while polishing this piece, I polished right through metal leaving a hole (see image).
 
 
   
 To compound things, the spring loaded ejector pin/pivot (see image) now gets stuck in that hole every time I eject the cylinder. So I can't completely eject the cylinder without a lot a wiggling and wrestling the blaster.
 
 
   
 Anybody have a repair technique for filling that hole?
 
 Thanks much!
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		| REdYOdA Community Member
 
  
 Joined: 27 May 2010
 Posts: 41
 Location: San Francisco
 
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				|  Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 3:38 am    Post subject: |   |  
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				| I would recommend filling the damage with http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php JB-weld is safe for use and bonds to softer metals. It's pretty easy to sand/paint after curing.
 
 Your finish is looking great btw...hope to see some finished pics!
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		| propsjonnyb Community Member
 
 
 Joined: 16 Jul 2009
 Posts: 476
 Location: Helmdon, Northamptonshire  UK
 
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				|  Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 4:43 am    Post subject: |   |  
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				| You  could  repair  the  hole with  a good lead free  solder , simply  'blob'  solder quickly into and around the  hole  , don't leave the  soldering iron tip against the  surface of the  pewter gun for  too long or  you'll  cause  more damage than trying to fix the  repair , you should end up with a raised 'pimple' of solder  on the  surface  ,  file or grind it down with a dremmel again not too much grinding  - finish with filing and sanding  it smooth . |  |  
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		| megagreg Community Member
 
  
 Joined: 06 Aug 2009
 Posts: 44
 Location: Oakland, CA
 
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				|  Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 11:12 am    Post subject: |   |  
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				| Thanks guys! 
 Some JBWeld is sitting right in front of me as I type this—so I'll probably try that method first.  And I'll post some photos when the build is done.
 
 All the best
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		| megagreg Community Member
 
  
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 Posts: 44
 Location: Oakland, CA
 
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				|  Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 11:40 pm    Post subject: |   |  
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				| JB Weld worked great - thanks again!  (solder might have been even nicer (a actual metal finish) but I was too chicken to try that method). 
 
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		| Staar Community Member
 
  
 Joined: 04 Feb 2008
 Posts: 757
 Location: AUSTRALIA
 
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				|  Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 12:49 am    Post subject: |   |  
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				| Great repair job there mate…!! 
 Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build completed.
 
 Regards
 
 MARK
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		| propsjonnyb Community Member
 
 
 Joined: 16 Jul 2009
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 Location: Helmdon, Northamptonshire  UK
 
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				|  Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:41 am    Post subject: |   |  
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				| I agree  looking  good,   whatever  works  best  -  since  I'm electroplating mine ,  I'd have used  solder rather  than  epoxy , since , I need a material  that's conductive - looking forward to seeing  teh finished article |  |  
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		| joberg Community Member
 
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 Joined: 06 Oct 2008
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				|  Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:43 am    Post subject: |   |  
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				| Very good repair MegaGreg!  Looking forward to more pics of your build. |  |  
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		| megagreg Community Member
 
  
 Joined: 06 Aug 2009
 Posts: 44
 Location: Oakland, CA
 
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				|  Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 7:51 pm    Post subject: |   |  
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				| Thanks all ! 
 Still working on it, but here's a sneak peak.
 
 
   
 Still to do:
 
 - electronics
- weathering & detail
 - fix upper receiver and barrel alignment
 Need More Help: What kind of battery is used in the SidKit?  Mine came "batteries not included"
 
 See here:
 http://www.heycomputer.com/instruction/blaster9.htm
 
 Thanks again !
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		| propsjonnyb Community Member
 
 
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				|  Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 4:40 am    Post subject: |   |  
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				| You can  use a 9v flat  battery, which I am  told Sidero  always used,  my Sidkit  has  a 9V inside,    or  as  Rich  does a  3v camera one  ,the  only thing to  make sure  about is the  wiring for  the  LED's and the  switch , and  protect the  circuit  with a small resistor , if  you don't  know the  specs on the  LED's as an unprotected  circuit and unknown LED's  could cause them to  overheat and burnout. |  |  
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		| joberg Community Member
 
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 Joined: 06 Oct 2008
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				|  Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:35 am    Post subject: |   |  
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				| Lookin' good...keep up the good work  |  |  
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		| megagreg Community Member
 
  
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 Location: Oakland, CA
 
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				|  Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 1:09 pm    Post subject: |   |  
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				| Thanks propsjonnyb 
 From the online instructions: ( http://www.heycomputer.com/instruction/blaster9.htm ) it looks like a 3v camera battery is being used. There was no resistor in the bag of electronics that came with the kit, so I'm thinking I don't need one for a 3v configuration (as opposed to 9v)? ?
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		| propsjonnyb Community Member
 
 
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				|  Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 4:21 am    Post subject: |   |  
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				| It depends on the specs of the  LED's  , if you don't know them  assume  300 ma and add a small resistor,   just to  protect them from burnout , if you  wire up the  LED's incorrectly the circuit could get  pretty warm  and  blow  an LED  damm shame if  you've fixed it  in place , most  LED's will happilly  work forever on 1.5v so try  to  keep it  around that limit, the  photos show them linked in series  , I'd add a 10ohm or12 ohm resistor  just to be on the  safe side. |  |  
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		| megagreg Community Member
 
  
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 Location: Oakland, CA
 
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				|  Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 11:51 am    Post subject: |   |  
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				| Great advice!  Thanks much propsjonnyb.  Off to the electronic store… 
 MG
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