Tomenosuke Blaster Barrel Removal

[DonParker]

Hey guys I was just wondering how the barrels
on these blasters are attached. Are they glued
into the frame or screwed in or is there some other
way they are held on? I always like to put metal
barrels on my guns so I can blue them. I'm just
curious since I'm getting the new kit.

Don Parker

[hirohawa]

I believe on the Pro Models the barrels are cast into place and would need to be sawed off.

Are ou going to do a run of steel Tomonosuke Barrel?

[hauptmann]

I broke down my Tome pro, with the goal of removing the barrel, and couldn't sort out a way to do it without destroying both the barrel and the revolver frame, or at least seriously damaging them to the point of not being able to reassemble them. I wasn't willing to chance it, considering how much the thing is worth.

I was hoping to provide a barrel sample to have a steel one made, but sadly had no success.

If anyone discovers a way to do it, I'd be interested in hearing about it.

[BeastMaster]

Hauptman can you post pics of the broken down barrel and gun frame?

It would be great if someone can find a way to cast the plastic parts in metal, maybe come to some agreement with the tomenosuke guys.

I'm ok with the bulldog frame being plastic, though the barrel would definitely need to be metal. Though I was thinking it might be worth looking into zinc plating the plastic parts and blueing them after. I know propsjonnyb can zinc plate plastic.
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"F*ck it, it's just a movie. Let him worry about it" Harrison Ford

[DonParker]

I guess they are like the offworld guns. I had to saw
the barrel of of mine ( a lot of other members here
know what I'm talking about ). The problem is that I
also had to drill the frame out for the new barrel.
I have made a copy frame and cylinder with
measurements taken from my Coyle but it took
loads of time. With a cnc making the frame would
be a piece of cake.
As far as making a run of barrels, if I remember
correctly Dave mentioned on the RPF that he may
do a run. I think my aftermarket parts making
days are over for now , however if I get the cnc
I've been working on getting that may change .

Don Parker

[joberg]

Not surprised that with the gun laws in Japan the barrel cannot be removed without doing some major industrial surgery on the prop

[hauptmann]

I'd be happy to post photos, but will probably have to do it after June 7 'cause I'd have to break the gun down and take some (didn't take any last time I broke it down). I'm away on a trip this Tuesday and am slammed with preps before my departure.

[DonParker]

I wouldn't worry to much about the photos. The
kit should be here by then (I hope). I'll be able
to get a look then. Maybe if we stick our heads
together we can figure something out.

[CessnaDriver]

So we need aftermarket frame and barrel to not destroy our Tomens.

It will be interesting to see if the kits are the same un-removeable barrels.

[hirohawa]

Got mine!

Barrel is very much cast into place on the receiver and has a metal strut blocking it from the backside where the cylinder lines up. Also it is plugged with what I think may be metal as the receiver is very heavy for plastic.

There is a pretty nice sized groove where the barrel meets the receiver that would make for the perfect cutting point.

Gotta get those hacksaws out and get Don out of retirement.

This thing is awesome and the finish is much smoother than I though it would be.

[hirohawa]

Close Ups on Barrel



Barrel has a metal bar through it.

[Ozwepaie]

Cutting that off and replacing it w/a machined barrel should not be a
Big deal?
W/the right tools & know how, looks like a piece of cake to me.

Who has the guts to send me one to prototype?
I only need one "in hand" to start making copy's.
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Que la Force soit avec toi

[DaveG]

I am planning to make aftermarket steel barrels, just as soon as I get my kit and can measure it.
_________________
Dave

"I just want to say people... Get A Life! Move out of your parent's basement! It's just a movie!"

[Skin-Job]

I'd be interested.....






Karl

[joberg]

It'll be interesting to see Dave and specially the way you're going to go about it

[DaveG]

there is definitely a metal slug of some kind cast into the barrel, judging by the weight. It would be nice to know the shape before trying to cut it off. If only I had an x-ray machine...

I would not recommend trying to cut on the line between the barrel and the frame, too big of a chance of mucking up the frame. Besides, the barrel is going to be toast afterwards anyway, so better off cutting a bit forward on the barrel and milling or filing up to the front of the frame.

The good news is that the rear of the barrel is hollow for almost an inch so you wont be having to cut through a beg round bar of metal, just the plastic and the narrow flat piece visible.

It'll be the weekend before I can get out to the shop to perform surgery on mine so if anyone wants to go first...
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Dave

"I just want to say people... Get A Life! Move out of your parent's basement! It's just a movie!"

[DaveG]

Dammit! Somebody had to be the first to whack off the barrel! Didn't hurt that I had some wine first.

Clamped the barrel in a vise and cut through about 3/32" in front of the face of the frame. I didn't want to cut right in the groove since that might damage the frame. It cut really easily with a fine tooth hacksaw. The barrel is hollow at this point and the flat metal bar is zinc.







After I made the cut I discovered that the bar was not flat, but had bent edges, to make it cast in place more securely.



The frame was clamped in the vertical mill and the stub end of the barrel milled flush with the front of the frame. This step could be done with a file very carefully, My intent is to turn a shoulder on the steel barrel that will slide into the hole in the front of the frame to align the barrel straight. So if this surface isn't filed perfectly square it shouldn't affect the alignment of the barrel.



After I milled the barrel flush I discovered that the exposed metal bar was zig zag shaped. So the bent edges must be notched and alternate back and forth for even more casting rigidity.



My original intent was to file or grind the flat bar out but the zinc is pretty tough for such a delicate operation. So I guess I'll just slot the shoulder to fit around the bar. This should help with the alignment anyway. Next step, turning a prototype steel barrel.


_________________
Dave

"I just want to say people... Get A Life! Move out of your parent's basement! It's just a movie!"

[jakob2121]

Really looking forward to seeing this.

[hirohawa]

Wow! That is hardcore. The packaging material is still warm and already you are hacking it up. Brave Man!

Can't wait to see the Steel Barrel!

[Skin-Job]

Dave,

Great work.

I think slotting the barrel shoulder is a great idea. It'll be really rigid.
If the frame and barrel are cold cast, one could make a hell of a mess of the frame trying to remove the zig zag piece. It doesn't look like there's a great deal of material thickness between the end of the zig and the outside of the barrel...

Also, the flats on either side of the zinc piece and the corresponding flats on the inside of the slot really increase the surface area. If you were going to glue the barrel in, it would have plenty of surface to grip on to.


Karl