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jameth Community Member
Joined: 02 Feb 2010 Posts: 825
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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 4:16 pm Post subject: |
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Buch wrote: | jameth wrote: | "This part was played and painted in black." |
Did you point out which version of the pro you have? This sounds like a description of the latest version.
I never had any problems with Mune, on the contrary he's always been very polite and understanding and helpful finding solutions... But I'm not sure he has much technical knowledge of the blaster?
I believe the metal is some kind of zink alloy according to different threads on theRPF.
And as people's answers indicate there's probably no easy solution...
If it were mine I would strip it it and re-blue. |
Well I tried one last time so we shall see.
It seams like such a simple question.
What is it made of and how was it finished?
The problem is everyone is saying something different so thinking the actual maker could answer the question seams reasonable.
I will try the gun store next I guess.
Amazing how something so awesome can turn to total crap so easy.
Thanks _________________ Tom |
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jameth Community Member
Joined: 02 Feb 2010 Posts: 825
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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 4:17 pm Post subject: |
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Raygne wrote: | Microfiber clothes are different depending on their weight and ratio. You can only wash them in cold water and let them air dry. Heat causes the fibers to harden. I generally don't wash them ever. I just throw them away and buy new ones. I bought some yellow ones at Walmart a couple years ago that were great. I keep them isolated to their intended item. I have one for my motorcycle visors, one for computer screens, etc.
It looks like you have micro-scratches which you could probably buff out with something. I know I used the Tamiya finish polish on a project that worked well. Renaissance Wax is also good but I am not sure it will fill the scratches.
It's really hard to suggest ideas without seeing it in person. I know it's frustrating. I just got the Tomenosuke Pro kit started and the brass rounds are polished to a mirror but even the slightest particles on a cloth scratch them.
Good luck. |
Well that may explain what happened. I just washed them normal. The instructions did not say anything about not using any heat or air drying.
I like your idea of a dedicated one.
At least that mystery is solved.
Thanks _________________ Tom |
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Nexus7 Community Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2014 Posts: 440 Location: New York Metro Area
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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 8:10 pm Post subject: |
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That was definitely it. If you don't throw them out, just hand wash the cloth with mild detergent in cold water and air dry it. |
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jameth Community Member
Joined: 02 Feb 2010 Posts: 825
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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 9:29 pm Post subject: |
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cratercritter wrote: | Good idea. Maybe Tomenosuke will send a replacement part (remove it)...cheap or free(?).
Or...post it off to them (Steyr part only) for repair (??).
Mune of Hollywood-Japan (selling agent for Tom-Pro guns and accessories), could assist with contacts maybe....
His email is >>> mmunegumi@gmail.com |
I tried Mune on last time:
I sent this:
I am talking about the first Blaster Tomenosuke released. The top Steyr section (The rifle/bolt section) is blued some how, not painted and I am trying to find out what was used to finish it and what it is made of.
I am getting different answers from all kinds of people. Some say it is zinc alloy, others say it's aluminum.
I just need to know what material the top Steyr section was made of and how it was finished???
Tom
This was the response?????
"The finish for the receiver part is so called, SATENA plated on zinc alloy.
I will check it again after plated.
Mune" _________________ Tom |
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Nexus7 Community Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2014 Posts: 440 Location: New York Metro Area
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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2016 9:31 pm Post subject: |
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English is likely not his primary language so I am sure that there is something being lost in translation on both sides. |
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cratercritter Community Member
Joined: 15 Jul 2009 Posts: 558
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Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 12:01 am Post subject: |
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Yes, not easy to deal with them sometimes especially if you start to get into technical jargon, since English is their second or third language.
Mune is mainly involved with selling these blasters. He deals with Tomenosuke Company, so I would not think that Mune has a strong technical grasp for these blasters. He probably keeps referring to the Tomenosuke guys.
He probably meant SATIN instead of "SATENA" ?
I used to own the Tom-PRO first release, same as yours.
I was quite impressed with the receiver's hard glossy finish.
Looks like it was a chrome plating, such as BLACK CHROME over
the treated (?) zinc alloy (or aluminium alloy) steyr receiver. It was not blued. Doubt they would have gone to the trouble of bluing them and it looked very much coated in some hard paint or a PLATING.
My line of thinking was to see if they could send a replacement receiver from their parts "bin".... any left over Tom PROs from the original run...but that may be difficult since it was kind of a few years back now.
I'd remove the receiver from the gun and see if the finish can be
removed with a special paint chemical stripper that does not react to the base metal...clean up to a new base metal receiver, then paint it.
But if it is a plating, it could be hard to take off(??...dunno). |
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Pierre990429 Community Member
Joined: 06 Dec 2012 Posts: 194 Location: France
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Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 7:27 am Post subject: |
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I confirm that Mune has always been very helpful.
"satena" means "satin" in several languages.
could you go to this page : http://www.tomenosuke.com/blaster/
and tell us WHICH blaster PRO you have ?
There are several ones I think.
Personally, my first Tomenosuke was the PRO with the box designed by "Lady Aiko". |
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jameth Community Member
Joined: 02 Feb 2010 Posts: 825
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Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2016 10:50 am Post subject: |
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It's the first one. There are pics on page one.
Mune just got back to me and still thinks I ham talking about the latest retail edition which is why they are recommending painting.
I realize it is a second language but I can't explain it anymore so I am giving up dealing with them.
Painting is not an option as I have never seen any paint job look like the Stery did on this. It looked just like it should. A nice gun blued finish.
I guess I can try the gun store.
Thanks guys.
Everyone is saying something different on the material and finish so it's hard to know how to proceed.
I may just leave it. The pics make it look much worse than it is and any effort to fix it probably won't go well.
Thanks again for all your help guys. _________________ Tom |
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DaveG Community Member
Joined: 13 Mar 2011 Posts: 373 Location: Southern Calif.
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Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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Be wary of advice from a gun shop. Guns are hardened steel, the receiver is soft zinc. They blue very differently. If you've read through any of the build thread for the kit you'll see that zinc is not the easiest metal in the world to get a good finish on.
I'd recommend an auto body wax as your first fix. rub it on, hand buff it out. It might fill in the micro scratches. If it doesn't help at least you can remove the wax and have done no harm. _________________ Dave
"I just want to say people... Get A Life! Move out of your parent's basement! It's just a movie!" |
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jameth Community Member
Joined: 02 Feb 2010 Posts: 825
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Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 10:04 pm Post subject: |
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DaveG wrote: | Be wary of advice from a gun shop. Guns are hardened steel, the receiver is soft zinc. They blue very differently. If you've read through any of the build thread for the kit you'll see that zinc is not the easiest metal in the world to get a good finish on.
I'd recommend an auto body wax as your first fix. rub it on, hand buff it out. It might fill in the micro scratches. If it doesn't help at least you can remove the wax and have done no harm. |
Excellent idea.
Thanks I will try that.
Yeah I had no luck at the gun store. No one knew or had any ideas.
I will try the wax.
Thanks _________________ Tom |
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jameth Community Member
Joined: 02 Feb 2010 Posts: 825
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Posted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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Well I tried auto wax and that did very little.
Then I tried Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish. It did shine up the receiver very nicely but did nothing to fix the damage.
I can only dream of what it would have looked like with the Mothers polish on an undamaged finish.
Guess I am stuck with a damaged finish.
This used to be a fun hobby.
Not so much anymore.
Thanks for all the suggestions. _________________ Tom |
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PartyRichter Community Member
Joined: 18 Feb 2016 Posts: 11 Location: London, UK
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RepliCAN Community Member
Joined: 01 Mar 2016 Posts: 42
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Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 10:52 am Post subject: |
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jameth wrote: | This used to be a fun hobby.
Not so much anymore. |
Hey man, setbacks happen. If it really bothers you that much to own a blaster with a less-than pristine finish, I'm sure you can always sell it and maybe get funds to replace it. When stuff like this happens on my projects, I either take a break and come back to it when I have a better perspective or I come to realize I love the damage as it adds a unique character to my prop. |
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eltee Community Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2006 Posts: 437 Location: West Coast USA
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Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 11:34 am Post subject: Simulating gun blue on zinc alloy |
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Back in the 70's the Japanese "non-guns" were sold and became very popular. We used them in police training, etc. as they were made of "metal" and constructed the same as their real counterparts (with minute dimensional differences to deter part swapping). They were made of a zinc based alloy.
The nicer non-guns had a polished blue finish that resembled a blued finish on a real gun. They sold a refinish / touch up liquid specifically formulated to work on a zinc alloy. I remember using that stuff and it worked well.
While no longer as popular as they once were, there is still a non-gun industry in Japan and you may want to search a little to contact a non-gun maker or retailer. In Tokyo, etc. there are these little, narrow storefronts that still sell replica military uniforms and non-guns. If you have a contact in Japan, he/she might be able to find a bottle of the non-gun bluing liquid. |
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Buch Community Member
Joined: 27 Feb 2014 Posts: 1184 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 11:48 am Post subject: |
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Any specific names or places to find these non-gun shops would be much appreciated as I'm going to Japan this summer.... _________________ Monsieur, azonnal kövessen engem bitte |
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eltee Community Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2006 Posts: 437 Location: West Coast USA
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eltee Community Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2006 Posts: 437 Location: West Coast USA
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Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 12:07 pm Post subject: |
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I read in some of the non-gun forums (zinc alloy Japanese replica guns) that people heated their guns with a hair dryer and kept them warm / hot when applying the cold blue and that improved the results. |
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jameth Community Member
Joined: 02 Feb 2010 Posts: 825
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Posted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 11:07 pm Post subject: |
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Well I stripped it and re-blued it and it's going to be gorgeous.
I finally had a chance to get some Mothers Aluminum Polish. Car wax was suggested to try as it won't hurt it and may work. It did not. Made it a little more shiny but that was it.
Then I tried the Mothers Aluminum Polish and man that made it beautiful. Just Gorgeous, but did not fix the damage. I think it might be factory flaws for some of it. The gun comes oiled and when I oiled it you could not see any of the damage until it's wiped off. Regardless the scratches were caused by that darn micro fiber cloth of mine.
Anywho since it was still not fixed I said screw it and stripped it quick and used a very old bottle of Gun Blue and did a quick test job on it. Then after used the Mothers on it and it looks great. Once I do a full strip with the actual Blue Remover/De-greaser and take the time to do a proper Bluing job with fresh blue, then polish it with Mothers it will look amazing.
I am hoping to get to it next week.
This also means the new one with just the top painted can be stripped and blued as can the trigger guard. That's the only difference I can see in the two other than the slightly lighter grips. Tomenosuke list of bunch of changes in this final version but all I could see is the grip color and the finish. Otherwise it looks exactly the same. _________________ Tom |
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Buch Community Member
Joined: 27 Feb 2014 Posts: 1184 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 3:21 am Post subject: |
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Pics or it didn't happen _________________ Monsieur, azonnal kövessen engem bitte |
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DVD Connoisseur Community Member
Joined: 25 Nov 2007 Posts: 230 Location: UK
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Posted: Thu Apr 21, 2016 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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Relieved that a solution's been found. Looking forward to seeing the restored masterpiece! |
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